Esquire editors pick their favorite shows.
Arguably Alessandro Sartori's best outing for the Italian house so far. Read the full review here.
It's always fun and challenging to try and make sense of a Prada show. This season's show venue, for starter, is an industrial space draped in sheer plastic with matching inflatable seats (designed by Verner Panton), each with its own global coordinates placed next to the seat. Yet, when the models walk down the runway in the tiniest shorts you can imagine, with a ushunka winter hat; you start to wonder: is this an oxymoron? Or is it just a styling trick? Where is this mishmash going? And then, there are floral printed shirts, leather zip ups, bright turtlenecks and ruffle dress shirts - again, paired with super short shorts and winter hats. Whatever the notion is, Prada is ahead of the curve and everyone will be following suit. And that was one of the most sexy (but not vulgar) collections we've seen in Milan. - Ian Loh, Fashion Director, Esquire Malaysia.
Versace brimmed with self confidence, blending street clothes, old-school, look-at-me glam, and tailored suits in a way that felt fresh yet grown up. Even the sportswear—like a red python jacket with a matching bucket hat—oozed a sense of adult luxe reminiscent of the '90s. The show, staged in the wisteria-draped garden of the storied Via Gesù headquarters, seemed untroubled by the whirling currents that beset the menswear season these days. Donatella brought it home in both senses. — Nick Sullivan, Fashion Director, Esquire US.
Season to season, Fendi presents solid, smart collections. This one was all that, but with some extra swagger. While it had a nod to harder-edged street influences, like full-cut baseball shirts, it also had some '90s-feeling looks—like anoraks that would feel right at home on Liam Gallagher’s back. — Michael Hainey, Esquire US.
Kim Jones’ Dior debut is one of the highlights in Paris this season. Boy, did he deliver. There are so many outstanding looks: from the opening look by Prince Nikolai of Denmark (a homage to Jones’ Danish mother) in a white-and-shirting-stripe; grey trench in Toile de Jouy pattern; Swarovski bee motifs embroideries; Oblique lace tee paired with silk organza bomber; the iconic women’s Saddle beig offered in different "male" variations (belt, mini backpacks, sling) and a stunning white plastic jacket with tiny feathered florals – all fusing Dior’s couture history and savoir-faire with Jones’ contemporary take on menswear. We think this faultless collection, executed with so much finesse, has made Jones the most exciting menswear designer of our time. - Ian Loh, Fashion Director, Esquire Malaysia.
Lambskin suits and water snake garments executed with expert finesse. Favourite look: the effortless charm of pairing a crew neck tee with a crisp pair of cotton serge white trousers (the look in the middle above); except in this case, the T-shirt is deftly crafted from panelled strips of water snake. Elegant, luxurious, and devastatingly chic. Favourite accessory: Loved the weekender bags in a colourful bleed of turquoise and yellow as well as blue and purple, but the must-have accessory from the collection has to be those H-styled leather sandals with a velcro-secured back strap available in white, chocolate and black. #Gorg - Norman Tan, Editor-in-Chief, Esquire Singapore.
Sportswear fused tailoring expressed in technical parkas and asymmetric knitwear. Favourite look: That fusion of sportswear with tailoring in the look on the right by the clever stylistic pairing of a short parka over a long coat, but both cast from the same green and silver striped technical fabric. Topped off with a bucket hat with the brim flipped up on the side, it was a prime example of the irreverence that permeates what Ossendrijver continually brings to the menswear table. One of the most underrated designers of our time. Favourite accessory: We often think of bucket bags for women, but what about bucket bags for men? Ossendrijver is onto something here with those canvas and leather bucket bags. - Norman Tan, Editor-in-Chief, Esquire Singapore.
Dries Van Noten opened his collection with a swimsuit; it was a bold move made with a simple statement. It really set the tone for the cheery show that followed. The wavy print woven throughout the collection (a collaboration with Denmark design legend Verner Panton) created the perfect bright fun mood for a colorful collection. — Matthew Marden, Style Director, Esquire US.
Source: Esquire US
This was probably the most-anticipated menswear show since anyone can recall, and Virgil Abloh crushed it. This was a show that opened a new chapter, not just at the legendary house of Vuitton, but in what matters in style, even defining what today's elements of style are. Abloh may have made his mark with of the street pieces, but this show was light on the casual and a strong statement for tailoring and craftsmanship. Standout pieces included: the reimagined Timberland boot and the matte white hard case. The show was mounted on a rainbow-hued catwalk in the Palais Royal, and the final looks referenced The Wizard of Oz and the yellow brick road. What we know definitively after this show: Virgil has got talent to burn, and we cannot wait to see where this multi-colored brick road is going to take us. — Michael Hainey, Esquire US.
Source: Esquire US
Mark Weston’s sophomore collection at Dunhill is an exceptional, brilliant effort. Tastefully designed and beautifully crafted, Weston’s leather outerwear is some of the strongest we’ve seen all season. Silhouettes are boxy, masculine yet relaxed while suits are tailored in softer cuts. Standout pieces include pattern green nylon parka, caramel oversized Moto jacket, shortened blue bomber and the pièce de résistance: a black leather trench that got us swooning so hard we might need to sign up another credit card just to secure a piece. - Ian Loh, Fashion Director, Esquire Malaysia.