A good bottle of wine is occasion enough to drink it, and with Penfolds celebrating the 75th anniversary of Grange, its iconic wine, we have more occasion than ever.

Since its creation in 1951 by Penfolds’ first Chief Winemaker Max Schubert, Grange began as a Bordeaux-inspired, full-bodied red made for ageing. The experimental vintage then evolved to become one of the world’s most collectable and consistently lauded fine wines.

But it wasn’t always well-received. When Schubert first combined Shiraz grapes from different Australian vineyards, setting out to make a wine that could age like European wine, the result was rejected by his own company. The wine was considered too bold and intense, leading Penfolds to discontinue the project.

Schubert didn’t give up, however, and continued to make the wine—then known as “Grange Hermitage”—in secret. By the 1960s, his earliest vintages had started winning fans and even awards, leading to the flagship wine we know today.

So, how well do we know the wine? Grange combines Shiraz's intensely rich fruit and ripe tannins with the complementary nuances of American oak. But there is more than one Grange, of course, with different vintages bringing out unique tasting notes.

To date, Grange has earned more than 37 perfect scores from leading wine critics. The wine connoisseurs (or nerds) among us might zoom into a couple of vintages in particular: the 2008 and 2018 are among the most highly decorated. The Grange 2008 was actually the first Australian wine to achieve a perfect 100 points from both Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate.

Esquire Malaysia recently had the chance to celebrate Penfolds’ 75th anniversary with none other than Penfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago, at an evening at the Four Seasons Hotel in Kuala Lumpur. 

Gago’s initial path was chemistry and mathematics as a teacher, before his long-held interest in wine spurred him on to complete a Bachelor of Applied Science in Oenology, the study of wine or winemaking. He joined Penfolds in 1989, and in 2002, he succeeded John Duval as Penfolds Chief Winemaker. 

Joining him for the celebration was Penfolds Regional Brand Ambassador Josh Yim, a certified sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers. 

The evening unfolded in two acts, beginning with an immersive solo tasting. Guests were guided into a darkened room bathed in a deep red glow. As they settled at individual plinths, an audio narrative unfolded, weaving together the voices of Penfolds luminaries Max Schubert, Peter Gago and Director of Winemaking Steph Dutton.

The storytelling offered a glimpse into the heritage, craftsmanship and vision behind Grange, before guests were invited to savour the Grange 2018, one of the wine’s most decorated vintages. Led by Josh Yim, the experience encouraged a moment of pause and appreciation, allowing guests to engage with the wine's complexity and character through sight, sound and taste.

In sequence, we experienced how Grange evolved over time, showcasing the wine’s complexity and ageing potential.

Then, onto the second act: a vertical tasting through Grange’s history, showcasing vintages spanning nearly three decades from 1983 to 2012. Each wine was thoughtfully paired with a bespoke menu, with Gago leading the tasting himself. In sequence, we experienced how Grange evolved over time, showcasing the wine’s complexity and ageing potential. As Gago puts it: “Grange is not about bigness. It’s about balance.” 

And a balanced tasting it was. Penfolds Grange 1983 opened with deep aromas of dark chocolate, spice, plum, briar and mint, layered with oak-derived coconut notes. Predominantly Shiraz with 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, it delivered a concentrated palate of sweet plummy fruit, tannins and a whiff of a smoky cigar box.

Meanwhile, the Grange 1991 showcased a complex, lifted character, with aromas of ripe berry spice, tobacco, mocha and green tea, with Penfolds' signature oak handling. Rich berry fruit and earthy characters unfolded across an intensely concentrated palate, while ripe tannins and integrated oak finished with excellent length. A balanced red that makes a quintessential Grange. 

The Grange 2012 brought exuberance to the tasting, opening with bright aromas of balsamics, soy, tomato purée, black olive and liquorice. These were followed by notes of tiramisu, mascarpone, freshly roasted hazelnuts and ground coffee beans. Fresh and refined, the palate revealed layers of red liquorice and savoury hints of gravy reduction and black olive tapenade, with a depth of red fruits. In Gago’s own words, “An unfolding kaleidoscopic vinous mosaic of charm, allure, character and cerebral reward.”

It’s one thing to enjoy wine with your meal and have it enhance your dining experience; it’s another to witness intricate tasting notes articulated well, and learn the subtle yet meaningful differences between vintages of a fine wine. 

It’s better still to do all this in the company of a passionate and knowledgeable custodian such as Gago, who derives joy from “the grip of the grape.”

Penfolds Grange is available at fine wine retail stores such as The botle, Above 5, Angel Cask and The Chamber.