The word “vibe” is overused these days, and probably on its way to being outlawed by the youngest and coolest among us. But the first time I walked into Sabato’s, that was the word which immediately came to mind. Sabato’s is, indisputably, a vibe. 

Located on level 25 of the new Kimpton Naluria hotel at TRX, the restaurant and bar is immediately eye-catching. Emerging from the lift, you’ll see a beautiful vintage-style checkered floor. From there, it gets more intriguing.

The Sabato’s entrance is enclosed in a curtained nook. Here, someone is poised to welcome you, taking a Polaroid-style photo of you and your party. There are even props— a disco ball helmet and retro sunnies. The intent is clear: get ready to make some memories. 

Memory is the connecting thread here. The décor is a statement, and a gambit. There are jewel toned walls, seats upholstered in red leather, a bold yellow ceiling. Walls lined with vinyl records, with a jukebox as a centerpiece. At the bar and lounge area, the booths lend a sense of the classic American diner. Sabato’s is an Italian American restaurant channeling the 1970s. True to the theme, the servers wear red gingham prints. 

The menu here is inspired by the “classic red sauce joint”, evoking the New York of The Godfather and Saturday Night Fever. What follows are dishes that need no introduction, because they’re baked (pardon the pun) into the popular imagination. Think spaghetti and meatballs, chicken parmigiana and lasagna “alla Nonna”. Many of the dishes are served in portions for sharing, in the manner of a family feast served up by Nonna herself.

This is old-school comfort food, elevated with handmade pasta and considered ingredients. One piece of trivia that came up during our tasting: in the process of recipe development, the chefs took burrata off the menu, because it wasn’t used in the 1970s era of Italian American cooking. 

There are some interesting touches. The jumbo shrimp cocktail is a nod to a retro appetiser, but served with citrus gremolata, which gives it a refreshing lift. Among the heartier dishes, the spicy rigatoni is an irresistible stand-out, thanks to a rich, creamy tomato sauce with just the right amount of kick. It’s served with a basket of focaccia and ciabatta, for mopping up leftover sauce.

The grilled Malabar snapper is the sleeper hit of the meal. Charcoal-grilled and served whole but deboned, the fish is tender and succulent, rich with olive oil and complemented with the zing of charred lemon. It’s a welcome addition, offsetting the heavier pasta dishes. 

For dessert, the nostalgia continues. The knickerbocker glory is thought to have been invented in New York in the 1900s. The Sabato’s version is a towering glass of stracciatella gelato, cherries, sponge cake and chocolate sauce. It’s a vision of a children’s treat, but sweet-toothed adults will find it moreish too.

The meals are designed for groups, or a minimum of two. But if you’re in the mood for something more low-key, there’s always the bar. Here, you can soak in the atmosphere, rather than the red sauce. 

Order a negroni or sbagliato, and some olives and arancini to nibble. While disco music plays, you can take in the views of the city outside, and settle in to debate the merits of The Godfather sequel. The Sabato’s team can’t bring the New York skyline here—or indeed take us back in time fifty years—but you get the feeling that they would if they could.

Discover more in the Lifestyle section of the upcoming print issue of Esquire Malaysia.